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A Brief on the Variety of Weaves

Weaves and why?

There are a multitude of weaving patterns used for dress shirts. To start off lets get a clear perspective on some of the terminology used by weavers. If we were to look at the strands of material used when weaving as horizontal and vertical strands, warp would be the vertical and weft would be the horizontal. Warp and weft are put together in various ways so shirts can be dense or loose in weave. They can have a box or a ribbed rough or smooth textures and with color added to the mix can be made in any pattern imaginable.

Most common weaves are

Broadcloth or Poplin: The most basic of weaves. The weave of Broadcloth is an even number of fabric strands warp and weft creating a smooth surface.

End-on-end: Also broadcloth though made with different color warp and weft threads. Most commonly done with blue threads from one direction and white from the other.

Twill: The weave of twill is a single or a few weft yarns passing over several warp yarns. As the weaving continues a warp yarn at the beginning of each pass is skipped and a warp yarn is added at the end. As the fabric is tightened this creates a ribbed effect in the material.

Pinpoint: Similar to Broadcloth though a little more textured with single strands of weft thread pass over and under double strands of warp threads."

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