‘worsted-weight’ Tagged Posts

Yarn Worsted Weight

Yarn Worsted Weight What's the difference between worsted weight and sport weight yarn? Someone gave me a bunch of leftover skeins of yarn, some of which have no labels. I'm not very experienced with ...

 

Yarn Worsted Weight

Yarn Worsted Weight
What's the difference between worsted weight and sport weight yarn?

Someone gave me a bunch of leftover skeins of yarn, some of which have no labels. I'm not very experienced with knitting or crocheting, so I'd like to know how to tell the difference between worsted weight and sport weight yarn.

FINE: SPORT WEIGHT, BABY YARN is listed as CATEGORY 2
A light weight yarn used for babywear, sweaters, and lighter throws. UK/Australia approximate equivalent: 8 ply

Sport weight yarn and DK (double knitting) weight yarn are often viewed as interchangeable, but they do have a slight difference. As you will see on the criteria listed with the icons to the right, sport weight yarn is a teeny bit lighter or finer than DK weight. Note: the word ’sport’ is not meant in the athletic sense, but rather in the women’s sportswear sense. Use these weights for socks, accessories, shawls, wraps, and heirloom sweaters like those inspired by Norwegian ski clothing.

MEDIUM: WORSTED-WEIGHT, AFGHAN, ARAN YARN is listed as CATEGORY 4
The most popular weight for knitting and crocheting. An ideal weight for throws and many adult garments. UK/Australia approximate equivalent: 10 ply, Aran weight

Worsted weight yarn is the most widely available weight of yarn and the most frequently used. You may think it would be more aptly named ‘bested’ yarn, but the moniker was actually derived from an old town in England. At double the weight of fingering yarn, worsted weight yarn is great for knitters of all skill levels and can be worked into nearly anything. Heavy worsted weight, as you may have guessed, is just a hair heavier than plain old worsted weight. Good for the same range of projects as worsted weight.

http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/how-to-knit-6.jpg

In the pic on link above :From top to bottom: fingering, or baby, weight yarn; sport weight yarn;
DK weight yarn; worsted weight yarn; bulky, or chunky, weight yarn.

hope this helps.
p.s you can find these explanations and categories on any yarn websites.





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hand dyed yarn 100 alpaca set lot worsted weight jewel tones ultra soft
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Beginners Crochet Patterns

When just beginning to crochet, keep in mind that your first work must be easy and something that is fun to do. Select a pattern that needs no or very little shaping like a pillow or a scarf. Tote bags and hats are also simple projects to make requiring very little shaping.   

There are a wide selection of colors and yarns so you can choose what colors suit you best, but remember to begin with a moderately smooth yarn that is easy to handle, like a worsted-weight type of yarn.

Patterns that use large hooks or needles and two threads of yarn can be great first projects because will be fast to complete. Search for patterns that are marked as "beginner".

Here is a pattern that when accomplished, makes a 7 inches by 9 inches block that can be a good practice for beginners; also, with these basic crochet pattern, one can easily create a scarf, pillow or a doily:

Materials needed:

•  Any color of yarn that is Worsted-weight

•  Size 8, and 14 inches long "knitting needles"

•  Big eye yarn needle

•  Small scissors

"Casting On"

1.  Create a "slip knot" on the needle's shaft, on one needle.

2.  Put this "needle" in your left hand, and hold the other needle on your right hand so you can manage the yarn. Insert the point of the "right needle", starting from the front to the back, in the "slip knot" and underneath the "left needle".

3. While holding the left needle which is still in your left hand, move your "left fingers" over so that it braces the right needle.

4.  With your index finger at the right, get the "yarn from the ball".

5.  Let go your grip on the right hand that id holding the needle and use your index finger so to carry the yarn "under and over" the right needle's point.

6. Return your "right fingers" to the right needle, then pull the yarn all through the stitch with the point of the right needle.

7.  Slide the point of the left needle unto the back of the new stitch, and take off the right needle.

8. Gently pull the ball of yarn to create the stitch that should fit well on the needle. Now you have successfully made a stitch known as casting on.

9.  Insert the point of the "right needle", starting from the front to the back, and into the stitch you have just made, under the left needle. Then repeat steps five up to step nine 26 times, up until you will have "28 stitches" on your left needle. This now completes the "cast-on row".  

"First knit row":

1.  Hold the needle having the stitches on your left hand and insert the point of the "right needle" in the first stitch, starting from the front to the back, same as in "casting on".

2.  With your "right index finger", draw the yarn from its ball underneath and then over the point of the right needle.

3.  Pull the yarn through out the stitch with the "right needle point".

This now completes the one knit stitch. Repeat Steps 1 to 4 every stitch remains on the left needle.

Measure the piece, so that it is 7 inches wide. Start the next "knit row" as follows:

Turn the right needle then hold it in your left hand. On your right hand, with the free needle, follow steps 1 to of your "first knit row" in every stitch. Work these until the block is 9 inches long.  Then "bind off" all of the stitches.

Here is a sample of a free doily pattern:

Pattern: Start at the center. Chain 5, "join in a ring".

R1: Chain 8, * double treble crochet (thread 3 times over ) in the ring, chain 4, and then repeat from * 10 times more (12 double treble crochet total counting starting chain), join with "sl", "st" to 5th "st" of ch-8 first made.

R2: Chain 9, double treble crochet in every double treble crochet with chain-3 between. Join with "sl", "st" to 5th "st" of starting chain.

R3: Chain 8, * double treble crochet in the center of the chain-4 of the preceding round, chain 3, double treble crochet in the next double treble crochet, chain 3, and then repeat from * around.

R4: Chain 9, double treble crochet in every double treble crochet with chain-4 between. Join to starting chain.

R5: Chain 5. * over chain-4 work 6 double treble crochet, double treble crochet in the next ,double treble crochet, chain 5, double treble crochet in next double treble crochet, chain 5, double treble crochet in next double treble crochet, and repeat from *. Then chain 5, and join to starting chain.

R6: Chain 6. * skip 1 double treble crochet, double treble crochet in next, chain 1, and make a d treble crochet with chain-1 between in every other double treble crochet of group of previous round. Chain 6, double treble crochet in next d treble crochet, chain 6, double treble crochet in next, chain 1, and repeat from * to end of round. Chain 6, join.

R7: Chain 5, * double treble crochet in each chain and each double treble crochet until 11 double treble crochet have been made (counting ch-5 as 1st d treble crochet) chain 7, double treble crochet in next double treble crochet, chain 7, and double treble crochet in next double treble crochet, and repeat from *. Join.

R8: Chain 6 (to count as double treble crochet and chain 1). Make double treble crochet in every 2nd "st" of proceeding round with chain-1 between. Join.

R9: Chain 10, * skip 2 double treble crochet (count d treble crochet from which chain started) and make double treble crochet over next ch-1, chain 5, skip 2 d treble crochet, double treble crochet over next ch-1, chain 5, skip 2 d treble crochet, d treble crochet over next ch-1, then double treble crochet in each double treble crochet and over each ch-1 until there are 15 double treble crochet in group. Ch 5, and repeat from *. In last group, make only 14 double treble crochet, and join to 5th "st" of starting chain which is counted as double treble crochet.

R10: Chain 11, * double treble crochet in next d treble crochet, chain 6, d treble crochet in next, chain 6, double treble crochet in next, chain 1, double treble crochet in every 2nd "st" of group, always with ch-1 between, chain 6, and repeat from *. Join.

R11: Chain 12, * double treble crochet in next double treble crochet, chain 7, double treble crochet in next, chain 7, double treble crochet in each chain and each double treble crochet (15 d treble crochet in group), chain 7, and repeat from *. Join.

R12: Chain 15, * double crochet in next double treble crochet, chain 12, double crochet in next d treble crochet, chain 12, double crochet with chain-1 between in every other double treble crochet of 15 double treble crochet group (8 d c), chain 12, and repeat from *. Fasten off the thread.

Enjoy your projects!

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